72 hours in Paris
Bookmark this for your next trip to the City of Light—the best neighborhood bars, my favorite local park, and the flea market you mustn't miss.
Paris, oh Paris. The city of light, the city of romance that always leaves me wanting more, more, more.
Paris and I have a complicated relationship. There’s no other city in the world that has made me feel more alone while simultaneously inspiring me. It’s a tension I can’t quite explain, and yet I find myself visiting at least once a year—even when I didn’t plan on it, even when I haven’t budgeted it into my calendar. Paris has an invisible pull on me, and although I cannot pinpoint why, I’ve stopped fighting it.
Maybe the loneliness comes from the fact that every French person seems to belong there in a way I never quite will. Parisians move through the city like they own the place—everyone walks around with this perfect air of indifference, like it’s a city they’ve rightfully inherited, and they carry the codes, the cadence, and the unspoken choreography of truly belonging. And I always unmistakably feel like the alien visitor, no matter how many times I stroll through Le Marais or through Parc des Buttes-Chaumont! There's a precise ache in loving a place that will never fully love you back the same way—in feeling like a permanent guest somewhere you wish, maybe just a little, you could call home.
But maybe this is also why I find it so energizing and inspiring. Standing on the outside, nose pressed to the fogging glass, I feel like I have the space to truly notice everything, and that longing forces me to pay attention to the smallest of details.
I’ve been to Paris more times than I can count, and I must admit it’s beautiful in every single season. There’s spring, with the first café terraces opening like flower buds in bloom and lovers wearing matching trench coats and holding hands while strolling along the canal. There’s fall, with golden light washing over limestone buildings and the smell of chestnuts roasting over shopping carts on the corners. And there’s winter, when restaurant windows glow yellowish gray with fog at five in the afternoon and a long dinner becomes the main course of the day.
But I have a special place in my heart for Paris in the summer.
There’s no better feeling than stumbling out of dinner to realize the sun hasn’t come close to setting. I want to bottle up the feeling of that endless Parisian blue hour, when the whole city seems to operate in a laid back, unfussy manner—when cafés spill onto the sidewalks and stay full past midnight. When people drape their legs over the edge of the canal and smoke skinny cigarettes, knees knocking together and wine glasses clinking. When the Seine turns gold, then pink, then silver, then as black as crude oil. When you can sit on a park bench at 9:30 PM with a bottle of wine, a baguette, and a friend, and feel like you have all the time in the world. The possibility! The potential energy!
Read on for my ambitious three-day warm weather itinerary that prioritizes movement, culture, and local spots over touristy checklists. You won’t visit the crowded Louvre and you won’t climb the Eiffel Tower, but you will see some truly gorgeous scenes along the way. And yes, comfortable shoes are absolutely non-negotiable. Because this is a city best experienced one step, one garden, and one perfect alleyway at a time.
Note: This is a LONG post because it has a lot of detail, so it might be cut off in your email. Either read it in the Substack app or here to see it in its entirety.
Where to stay
Note: If you’re coming from out of town, do your best to arrive early Friday morning, or fly in Thursday night to maximize your exploration time.
Le Grand Mazarin
My favorite Parisian property, located smack dab in the middle of Le Marais. A stone’s throw away from excellent shopping and Place des Vosges, and only a 30 minute walk across the Seine to Jardin du Luxembourg. Plus, the food is genuinely excellent, and the pool is as dreamy as it looks.
*Starting at around $750/night
Hôtel Les Deux Gares
In my mind, this is the cool, younger sibling of Le Grand Mazarin—still design-forward (designed by artist Luke Edward Hall), but definitely a boutique hotel experience instead of a luxury hotel one. Most of the rooms are on the smaller size, and it’s in a less walkable area, but it’s right next to the train station, close to Montmartre, and a great budget friendly option, especially if you’re looking for a hotel with whimsical touches.
*Starting at around $250/night
Friday: Le Marais, the Picasso Museum, garden walks, and the Left Bank
Today is for luxuriating in gardens outside, making some museum pit stops, walking along the Seine, and a gorgeous picnic dinner.
Morning
Start off the day with breakfast at FAUNA, an excellent little Danish cafe in Le Marais. You cannot go wrong with what you order here, but a cardamom bun and a sourdough bun with butter and cheese should be on your table, at a minimum.
After you’ve had your fix of coffee and crumbs, beeline to the Musée National Picasso-Paris. It is housed in a rather impressive 17th-century building that was originally built for a man that made all of his riches collecting the salt tax. Between what’s on display and what’s in the archive, the museum has over 5,000 works, spanning from Picasso’s cubist pieces to his blue period. I personally avoid the Louvre always but especially on weekends because it’s too damn crowded, but this is a doable delight on a Friday and you should take time to luxuriate in every nook and cranny.
Pop to the gift shop on the way out and pick up some postcards to send friends or to put in your junk journal. Once you’ve had your fix of art, it’s time to wander around Le Marais and do some shopping.
Some of my favorite stores are:
Carel Paris for ballet pumps and block heels (I prefer their selection to Repetto and find their shoes to be far more comfortable and visually interesting)
PREDILECTION for well-curated vintage pieces (tons of 90s and 00s designer stuff)
Le Mont Saint Michel for their structured work jackets, knits, and iconic dachshund shopper totes
Sabre for high quality cutlery and tableware (their bottle openers make for very chic housewarming gifts)
Officine Générale for really nice menswear basics and excellent customer service (their sweaters are a delight)
Kanelle Vintage for silk slip dresses
AMI for great sweaters and basics
If you want a croissant after walking around, head to Petite Ile boulangerie and then walk to Place des Vosges and let the crumbs rain down on your clothes while you people watch in the park.
Drop your shopping bags at the hotel and get ready to cross the river for your next chapter!
Afternoon
Take a stroll across the Seine to Jardin des Plantes. Marvel at the grounds and also make sure to check out the alpine gardens while you’re there. After you’ve soaked in your fill of roses and dahlias, it’s time for a long, leisurely lunch. There are three options based on the mood you’re in, and you can’t go wrong with any of them:
Localino for handmade pasta and the best tiramisu you’ll ever have (it’s not on the lunch menu, but if you ask for it, they’ll be happy to oblige). Book ahead!
Le Voltaire for chocolate mousse, delicious roast chicken, perfectly crispy frites, and a delightful bread service/butter/crudités situation that instantly hits the table as soon as you sit down. Book ahead! This is my favorite French food in the city.
Les Deux Magots for the lobster salad and a perfect slice of Parisian people watching. This is an easier walk-in spot, but you might have to wait a tad because it’s an institution—Picasso and Hemingway used to come here, and the New York Times has labeled it as the most popular cafe in Paris. Still, it punches above its weight and makes for a delightful afternoon, especially if you’re lucky enough to get sidewalk seating.
Once you’ve filled up on carbs, beeline to Jardin du Luxembourg to soak in the afternoon light and watch children race mini sailboats around the pond. In my mind, it’s Parisian paradise no matter the season, but it really sings in summer when it’s in peak bloom.
From here, you have a few options. Choose your own adventure:
Head to Musée Rodin to take in the sculptures and the gorgeous grounds and gardens.
Head to the gorgeous Musée d’Orsay to get your fill of impressionist art and gawk at works from Monet and Van Gogh.
You could do some more shopping, stopping at Citypharma for French skincare, Marin Montagut for unique ceramics and souvenirs, and Le Bon Marché for a true Parisian department store experience. It’s beautiful inside—everything from the architecture to the window displays has been painstakingly and masterfully done.
Your last afternoon stop is La Grande Épicerie de Paris—it’s the best food hall in the city, and where you’ll stock up on picnic goodies for dinner tonight! Their charcuterie and cheese selection is impressive, and of course they have Maison Bordier butter here, along with the finest breads. My favorite move is to get all of the ingredients to make a stellar Jambon-beurre sandwich, some olives, fruit, and cornichon. Throw in a few chocolates, a bottle of wine, and some crisps and it’s the perfect well-rounded picnic meal.
Note: I’d recommend returning to La Grande Épicerie on your last day in the city to stock up on the aforementioned butter if you have time. They can vacuum seal your butter haul for an extra €1 and you can put it in your checked luggage to take it home! It makes the best food souvenir.
Evening
Picnic time! Head to Champ de Mars to stake out the perfect spot to assemble that sandwich and open your wine while drinking in the best views of the Eiffel Tower. Yes, this is a peak touristy moment, but don’t be afraid to lean in!
After you’ve had your fill of picnicking, end the night with a nightcap at LE DIMA, a cocktail bar located in the 15th arrondissement. It’s owned by the cutest French-Moroccan couple, and it’s not an overly-flashy place. Despite its proximity to the Eiffel Tower, it’s very cozy and private and filled with locals. The staff is unbelievably polite, and if you’re lucky, the owners’ Australian Shepherd may stick its head in your lap. The “ode to tomato” cocktail is standout, tasting like a sippable bruschetta. Oui, merci.
Saturday: Montmartre and flea market finds
Today will be spent in the hills of the 18th, exploring Montmartre on foot, and then diving into the layered, secondhand history of one of Europe's great flea markets—Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen. It’s the largest flea market in the world, and it’s filled with so many beautiful antiques and treasures. Look hard enough and you’re likely to find deals on vintage Chanel bags, silk Hermes scarves, and gilded mirrors alike. It’s a collector’s paradise.
Note: While travel is my business, I’m keenly aware of how influencer culture has cheapened it. Travel should expand your world, not exploit the places you visit. To protect Paris neighborhood spots from over-tourism, the rest of this post, my Paris Google map (with over 50 of my favorite restaurants, bars, coffee shops, record stores, and hidden gems in hidden corners), and helpful tips are for paid subscribers.