72 hours in Copenhagen
Bookmark this for when you're in need of a long weekend scandi city escape
I’m in love with Copenhagen. I realize I sound fully delusional saying this after spending only a bit of time there, but it’s a city I instantly connected with on a deeper level. Copenhagen feels deeply aligned with my personal values—sustainability, efficiency, recognizing beauty in the everyday, a respect for nature and design, and a slower, more intentional pace of life.
And nowhere does that alignment shine brighter than in the warm months, when the whole city revolves around being outside. Copenhagen has an unmatched culture around nature and swimming. People hop in the harbor before work, picnic in parks until the last light of sunset, and bike everywhere in between. There’s an ease to summer here that feels contagious, the kind of lifestyle you start plotting how to bring home with you before you’ve even boarded your flight home. I dream of spending my summers in Copenhagen from now on.
This guide is built for late spring, summer, and early fall, when long daylight hours, warmer water, and the city’s outdoor spaces are at their absolute best. It’s built around walking and biking, because I believe that’s the best way to enjoy Copenhagen. It’s an ambitious three-day itinerary that prioritizes movement over checklists, with a lot of ground to cover (and yes, comfortable shoes are absolutely non-negotiable). But it’s worth it—even if you end up with a few blisters. Because this is a city best experienced one step, one cardamom bun, and one perfect corner at a time.
This guide doesn’t include the TikTok famous Atelier September, the world famous Noma, or shopping at Tekla for pajamas, but it has special places that really resonated with me personally, places that inspired me, and places that filled my cup in ways I didn’t expect. Of course this itinerary isn’t exhaustive, as Copenhagen has so much to offer, but it’s a great starting point for an intro to Copenhagen’s food, art, architecture, shopping, walking, swimming, and biking scene.
This is a LONG post because it has a lot of detail and a lot of photos I’ve taken, so it might be cut off in your email. Either read it in the Substack app or here to see it in its entirety.
Where to stay
Note: If you’re coming from out of town, do your best to arrive early Friday morning, or fly in Thursday night to maximize your exploration time.
I recommend that you stay at Villa Copenhagen. It’s centrally located near a major train station, absolutely beautiful, and co-located with Rug Bakery, one of my favorites in Copenhagen. Rug Bakery has the best cardamom buns and bolle med ost (a classic Danish breakfast consisting of a sourdough bun, butter, and cheese). If I could have Rug for breakfast every morning, I’d be cured of all of my depression.
There are also a ton of beautiful Airbnbs in Copenhagen.
This would be a great option for a solo trip or romantic getaway.
This is a great option for a group trip—four almost equal sized bedrooms in one apartment is a rarity!
Friday: Classic Copenhagen on Foot
Morning
Start the day by biking to Juno Bakery for your first Cardamom bun of the trip. Add a bolle med ost while you’re at it—one of my new favorite breakfast items, which sadly isn’t available at the same level of quality in NYC.
After you’ve had your pastry fix, walk down the street to Prolog coffee for a caffeine fix—they have excellent espresso and matcha. Prolog actually sells Juno pastries, but they won’t be as fresh as they are at the bakery.
After you’ve fueled up, walk or bike to Kastellet, a 17th century fortress with grass ramparts and a very cute windmill. It’s a very beautiful area for a walk, and it’s also near the famed Little Mermaid statue, which is extremely crowded and absolutely not worth your time. Skip that.
Continue on to the Designmuseum, an absolute must. Expect to spend a couple hours gawking at its Ivar Bentsen and Kaare Klint–designed spaces, its historical collection of chairs and ceramics, and the beautiful courtyard garden. It has a killer gift shop too. At the least, pick up a few postcards as souvenirs.
Afternoon
Once you’ve had your fill of design, wanter through the King’s Garden (Kongens Have), which is a beautiful park with blooming gardens. If you’re interested, you can stop by Rosenborg Castle and check out the collection of crown jewels (just beware the line can be long, you might want to get tickets in advance).
For lunch, Stop at DØP for an organic classic Danish hot dog with the works. Make sure to get all of the toppings for maximum enjoyment. Remoulade and crispy onions are delicious. Pickles are mandatory. Danish hot dogs are quite the experience and not to be missed!
If you need some afternoon caffeine, head to La Cabra. Sure, we have La Cabra in New York, but you might as will visit it in Copenhagen, because it’s just that good. This one is co-located with Another Aspect, a beautiful local menswear store worth a browse.
Next is Nyhavn, the iconic Copenhagen harbor with beautifully painted houses and boats. Touristy? Yes, but worth seeing. Just make sure not to eat in the midst of it—the restaurants are all tourist traps, and they’re quite expensive.
If you want a glass of wine by the water, head right around the corner to Den Vandrette. Their food menu rotates seasonally and I had the best Curry Laksa and pandan rice/mushroom rendang here.
Walk across the canal to Freetown Christiania, a once-autonomous, now semi-legal neighborhood in Copenhagen that started in 1971, when a group of squatters took over an abandoned military base and turned it into a haven for artists, free thinkers, and the counterculture crowd. These days, it’s still colorful and chaotic (and famous for its now-illegal cannabis stalls on Pusher Street), but it’s now officially under Danish law.
You’ll be within viewing distance of Christians Kirke, the famed Danish church with the spiral spire. It’s an architectural gem worth looking at from the outside.
Night
Go back to the hotel to regroup, and then head to Slurp for perhaps the best ramen of your life… the broth is soooo good, I still dream of it. Add some gyoza to your order too.
Then it’s Tivoli Gardens time!! Tivoli is Copenhagen’s charming, old-school amusement park. It’s part storybook, part fever dream… where you can ride a roller coaster, see beautiful flowers, and eat something covered in powdered sugar, all in the same night. Even as an adult, it’s a must-do.
I recommend going before it turns dark out and staying through dusk—the park is all lit up at night and is truly gorgeous. The Rutschebanen is the best rollercoaster. It’s super easygoing and reminds me of Thunder Mountain in Disney. Take a ride on the little boats on the lake for a romantic date moment (if you’re alone, take yourself on a little boat date).
The soft serve at Tivoli is absolutely dreamy and should not be missed as dessert. I got mine with Oreo crunchies, obviously.
Saturday: Louisiana Museum + canal swims
Morning
Start the day off with breakfast at Rug Bakery. Rug is right across the street from the train station—you’ll be taking the train to the Louisiana Museum, and you’ll want to get an early-ish start so you’ll beat the museum crowd. A cardamom bun and a bolle med ost are required eating, but they also have excellent egg dishes and coffee. You really can’t go wrong here.
Head to the train station and hop on the S-train to the Louisiana Museum. It’s about a 40 minute train ride, and then a 10 minute walk. The Louisiana takes the top spot for my favorite museum in the world. I love how beautifully integrated into nature it is—it’s right on the water and it’s indoor/outdoor with so many lovely sculptures and installations. I won’t spoil everything for you, but the permanent Yayoi Kusama exhibition is a must. There’s a line but it moves quickly, so stay strong.
Lunch at the museum cafe overlooking the water and staring at Sweden is pure magic.
Afternoon
Head back to the city, because it’s time to take an afternoon dip at La Banchina, which is worth every bit of hype it’s ever received. Coffee and wine by the water on a beautiful Danish day—what’s not to like? You can even book their sauna in advance if you’re into a cold plunge/steam situation.
If you’re in the mood for a pastry after your dip and drink, head to Lille Bakery across the street. Whether you order an afternoon sausage roll or a cinnamon roll, you can’t go wrong here.
If you’re in the mood, on your bike/walk back to the hotel, pop into Ferm Living for some dreamy interior design inspiration. All of the drinking glasses in my home are from Ferm, and it was cute to see their vision and design in person.
Night
Head back to your hotel to freshen up, and then it’s time for the most delicious vegetable-forward dinner you’ll ever have. No, I’m not talking about Noma, I’m talking about Baka d’Busk in Nørrebro. If it’s still light out, bike there over the canal. It’s scenic, it’s cute, it’s the perfect bike ride.
You cannot go wrong with anything you order here, and the menu is fresh and seasonally rotating. I really loved their plate collection—you get to choose the plate you dine on, and there are some truly beautiful ones.
If you’re not ready to end the night after dinner, head next door to Kølsters Tolv Haner for a nightcap. It’s a very cute local bar that has lots of outdoor seating perfect for people watching, and plenty of candle-lit indoor seating, where locals gather to drink and play card games.
Sunday: Nørrebro, Meatpacking, + Vintage shopping
Note: This guide took me over 10 hours to compile and put together. Because of the love and care I put into this guide, day three of the itinerary, helpful tips and tricks, and my CPH Google Map are for paying subscribers only. If you like what you see, please consider supporting Mindholiday by upgrading to a paid subscription. It’s only $6 a month, or $60 a year, and I promise I’ll make it worth your while!