Guest Check: The Corner Store
A new series where I review NYC's most hyped up restaurants to see if they're *really* worth the hype
The Corner Store is the newest celebrity-magnet in SoHo, taking over the cavernous space once occupied by Dos Caminos on Houston and West Broadway. With Taylor Swift and Gigi Hadid recently spotted catching up here over dinner, it's become the ultimate it-spot — good luck getting a reservation now. Thanks a lot, ladies.
I'll admit, I tend to side-eye most clubstaurants, especially the ones that seem engineered to pull in a star-studded crowd, but I couldn’t help but get curious when I saw The Infatuation rate it an 8.4/10 (which, in their world, is basically glowing). My curiosity only grew when I noticed it had a lackluster 3.7 on Google Reviews — since bumped to 4.3 at time of publishing, likely the result of some frenzied troubleshooting behind the scenes. How could there be such a stark divide between critics and everyday diners? There was only one way to find out: I needed to experience The Corner Store’s buzzed-about menu of highbrow childhood throwbacks (pizza rolls! Samoa sundae!) and see if it was actually worth the hype.
Mark and I did what we do best — show up 10 minutes before opening on a random weeknight and claim a couple of prime bar seats. It worked like a charm. Armed with our weed vape pen (and perhaps a little more excitement than I’d like to admit), we set off on a sceney, nostalgic culinary journey, accompanied by some of the best— and most tragic — people-watching we’ve ever encountered.
The ambiance (and the characters)
From the moment you step inside, it’s clear that Catch Hospitality Group spared no expense. With deep, rich wood tones and plush, over-padded booths, it’s the kind of place that just begs for a stiff martini on a cold night. Bonus points for the soundproofing—no one wants to leave a fancy dinner with a hoarse voice from shouting across the table. Bravo, Catch Hospitality!
But the real entertainment is the crowd. I had a delightful chat with the doorman while stepping outside for a vape. I complimented his panda Nike Dunks, and he was all too happy to tell me he recently realized he could write off his entire “work footwear” collection. “I’m expanding my luxury kicks lineup as soon as my business credit card comes in,” he told me, grinning. “Sad truth of New York life: It’s all about figuring out what you can — and can’t — conceivably deduct from your taxes,” I replied. We glanced back at the dining room, where martinis seemed to be flowing freely, and both agreed that probably 100% of the crowd was feverishly writing off their boozy indulgences.
A tipsy woman in leather Prada booties stumbled up to the doorman asking if he knew where to find a real corner store for a lighter and chips. I laughed and told him that maybe The Corner Store could consider having an actual corner store inside it. He laughed too, and just like that, I’d made a new friend.
The hostesses at The Corner Store looked like viper mean girls, each one exuding an icy coolness that could freeze a martini solid. Their buns were so tightly slicked back that I swear they must be nursing permanent migraines. Not a single hair was out of place, giving them a severe, almost intimidating air. With cat-eye liner sharp enough to cut glass and glossy, unblinking stares, they made it clear that the velvet rope wasn’t just for show. You could practically see them sizing up every guest, ready to smirk at anyone who dared arrive a minute late for their reservation.
Back at the bar, two vest-clad finance bros were visibly irked when the (very handsome) bartender gave them a polite snub after they bypassed the extensive martini list and ordered “well whiskey on the rocks.” “We don’t carry Wild Turkey here, sorry.” Cue looks of utter dismay. Sir, this isn’t a Wendy’s. Key phrases they kept repeating were “The due diligence is BOGUS!” (tell me about it) and “The basis is not cheap” (whatever the fuck that means, seriously let me know). Sigh.
What we ordered
When we tackle a new restaurant, we go straight for the dishes everyone’s buzzing about. Here, that meant the sour cream and onion martini, pizza rolls with hot honey and ranch, caesar salad, steak frites, and, of course, the Samoa sundae.
The sour cream and onion martini delivered exactly what it promised — a dead ringer for gas station chips. I took a tentative research sip, then handed it to Mark. Impressive, but not our cup of tea. For those who grew up inhaling a bag of Lay’s in the back of a minivan, I get the appeal.
The pizza rolls, however, were transcendent. Perfectly crispy outside, gooey and cheesy inside, and elevated by the ranch and hot honey combo. Forget your childhood Totino’s — these are pizza rolls for adults who refuse to compromise on nostalgia. A must-order.
Next came the lobster caviar roll. The generous dollop of caviar was an unexpected delight and we both agreed it’s the best version we’ve found in NYC. Why did this unassuming roll outperform all our previous favorites? Get it together, Red Hook Lobster Pound. Although it seems like it would be a lot with the lobster and caviar, little guy was well-rounded and not to be skipped.
The Caesar salad at The Corner Store is hands down the best I’ve ever had, and it’s all thanks to two absolute game changers: fried cream cheese cubes and everything bagel croutons. Imagine biting into a perfectly crispy, golden exterior that gives way to a warm, velvety pocket of cream cheese — it's a textural and flavor bomb that elevates the whole experience. And just when you think it can’t get any better, you hit a crunchy, savory everything bagel crouton, speckled with sesame seeds, poppy seeds, and just the right hint of garlic. It’s like having the best of New York’s deli and classic steakhouse flavors all rolled into one perfect bite. This salad isn’t just a starter, it’s an obsession that’s going to ruin every other Caesar for me forever.
I’d been most excited for the steak frites, being notoriously picky about both components. This one delivered. Not the best ever, but a strong contender. The peppercorn sauce leaned a bit too sweet, but a couple of shakes of salt and pepper fixed it right up. My only gripe? The fries arrived unsalted. A shaker was thoughtfully placed beside them, but I’d rather my fries come pre-seasoned. Still, nothing a quick sprinkle couldn’t fix.
We elected to get the steak with the peppercorn sauce and the trio of dipping sauces for the fries. The McOli Sauce is my platonic ideal of a special sauce, and the avocado ranch and horseradish sauce were skippable. If you want ranch, ask for the kind that comes with the pizza rolls, which is different and much better.
We capped off the night with the samoa cookie sundae. Fun fact: I’m from Savannah, GA, the birthplace of the Girl Scouts, so I’m kind of an expert on this kind of stuff. This tasted like exactly something I would have LOVED at ten years old. In my older age, I still liked it, but it hurt my teeth after five bites or so, just because it’s that sweet. I really appreciated that they evenly distributed the coconutty cookie topping, layering all the way to the bottom so you never run out of delicious crunch. Nothing irks me more than receiving a sundae to only realize there’s a sneeze of toppings on the very top, and nothing going on at the bottom! This thing could be shared easily between 3-4 people. Try it if you dare.
What’s the Damage?
Considering the Polo Bar’s burger is a cool $35, The Corner Store’s prices weren’t as gut-wrenching as I’d anticipated. When our check came, Mark turned to me, eyebrow raised, and asked, “When was the last time everything hit like this?” Reader, he was right. Everything hit.
