A Cassis guide
The most underrated town in the south of France. Save your soul and skip Cannes!
Every summer, our family heads to the south of France, specifically to the town of Vence, to visit my in-laws. My husband and I have a tradition every year of leaving our son with his grandparents for a few days while we explore a new location in Europe, and this time we decided to take a 2 hour road trip to spend two nights in Cassis.
Cassis, a charming Mediterranean gem nestled in the heart of Provence, effortlessly combines natural beauty with rich culture. It’s less fussy and pretentious than other well-known vacation spots in the south of France.
This picturesque seaside town, framed by majestic limestone cliffs and azure waters, is renowned for its stunning calanques – dramatic rocky inlets that create a breathtaking contrast against the clear blue sea. These calanques, often referred to as the 'fjords of the Mediterranean,' are a haven for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, offering an unparalleled outdoor adventure.
Wandering through Cassis, you'll discover narrow, winding streets lined with pastel-colored houses, vibrant cafes, and bustling markets brimming with local produce and handcrafted goods. The scent of lavender and rosemary wafts through the air, mingling with the salty sea breeze, creating an intoxicating atmosphere that captures the essence of Provençal life.
Cassis is also a paradise for wine enthusiasts. The town is surrounded by vineyards producing the famed Cassis wine, a delicate and aromatic white that perfectly complements the region's seafood cuisine. Enjoy a glass or two and you’ll immediately understand the hype.
The harbor, dotted with colorful fishing boats and overlooked by the imposing medieval Château de Cassis, serves as the town's vibrant hub. Here, you can enjoy a cheeky spritz at one of the multiple waterfront restaurants, take a leisurely stroll to the stunning town beaches, or simply soak in the panoramic views of the sparkling Mediterranean.
One of the most appealing aspects of Cassis is its affordability. Compared to the sky-high prices of Saint-Tropez and Cannes, Cassis offers a much more wallet-friendly experience without compromising on charm or quality. Accommodations, dining, and activities are significantly cheaper, making it an ideal destination for those looking to experience the French Riviera on a budget.
We chose Cassis for all of these reasons. We wanted to explore a slice of France that had plenty of outdoor activities (hiking), walkable access to beautiful town beaches, and candidly, we didn’t want to experience the fussiness of the more glitzy towns on the French Riviera. It offers a refreshing escape with its laid-back vibe, stunning natural beauty, and a sense of genuine Provençal life that remains unspoiled by mass tourism. It’s a place where you can enjoy the best of the French Riviera without the high prices and crowds, making it a true haven for those in the know.
Where we stayed:
We chose Les Roches Blanches because we happened to be celebrating our five year anniversary during this trip. It was the perfect romantic home base for our 48 hours in Cassis. It was a stunning 10 minute walk to town, perfectly situated between the harbor and the calanques.
Not only was it super convenient location-wise, but the grounds were breathtaking! I could totally see how you could just stay on property for two days, lounging by the infinity pool and drinking wine.
This is a five star hotel, but compared to others on the French Riviera, it’s a steal. I’d highly recommend this for a little “splurge” without breaking the bank.
Airbnbs are also a FANTASTIC option here. There are so many with sea views that are super affordable:
This one sleeps 8, and it’s $650/night for dates in August (high season)
This one is 100 meters from the beach, sleeps 7, and is $450/night for dates in August (high season)
This is another one with amazing views, sleeps 6, and is $400/night for dates in August (high season)
Cassis would be an incredible option for a low-key friend/family trip due to its affordability and walkability!
What to do:
Explore the Calanques
Hiking: Traverse the trails of Calanques National Park to witness stunning limestone cliffs and hidden beaches. We did the hike to Calanque d'En-Vau, known for its turquoise waters and dramatic scenery. I would 100% recommend this! Just know what you’re getting into— it’s a 5.5 hour loop (including time spent at the beach), and we climbed about ~190 flights of stairs (according to the Apple Health app). Wear real hiking shoes! We witnessed so many people attempting to do this in flip flops, and they all looked absolutely miserable.
Boat Tours: Take a boat tour from Cassis harbor to explore the calanques by sea. This provides a unique perspective of the rugged coastline and crystal-clear waters. Although I’d recommend hiking over a boat tour, this is an option for people who don’t want to spend their vacation days walking up and down the hills for hours.
Visit the Local Vineyards
Wine Tasting: Cassis is famous for its white wine. Visit local vineyards such as Domaine du Paternel for a tasting tour and learn about the region’s winemaking traditions. We didn’t have time for this, but I am dying to go back to have this experience.
Relax at the Beaches
Plage de Bestouan: A pebble beach with clear waters, ideal for a quieter beach experience away from the crowds. This was our favorite, and we spent a lovely, long afternoon here post-hike. Pick up a sandwich from Au Petit Buffet right across the street and have yourself a picnic.
Plage de la Grande Mer: The main beach in Cassis, perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and enjoying the scenic views of the Mediterranean and the surrounding cliffs.
It’s important to note that these beaches aren’t fussy. They have restaurant facilities, but don’t expect over-the-top beach clubs that wait on you hand and foot. Bring water shoes! The beaches are rocky.
Wander Through the Town
Market Visits: Explore the bustling local markets, especially on Wednesdays and Fridays, where you can buy fresh produce, Provençal herbs, and local crafts. This was one of the cuter and better French markets I’ve seen!
Stroll the Harbor: Enjoy a leisurely walk around the picturesque harbor, dotted with colorful fishing boats and lined with charming cafes and restaurants. Stop for a drink at any of the restaurants or bars during aperitivo hour and do some people watching.
Where we ate
I don’t really have many recommendations for restaurants in Cassis. We ate at our hotel both nights, which was delicious, but definitely on the pricier side, knowing how cheap things are in town. We did “girl dinner” for lunch both days (chips, sandwiches, magnum bars on the beach) because we didn’t want to waste time sitting at restaurants when we could be exploring.
However, we grabbed pastries at Boulangerie Lion one morning, which were great, and we had coffee at Grain De Folie, which was excellent. They got my stamp of approval because they had unsweetened iced tea, which is a rarity in the south of France.
Ok, that’s it for now! Overall, I think Cassis is the beach town and would be a great trip for hiking enthusiasts, families, friends, or someone looking for a slower pace and less fussy location in the south of France. I desperately want to spend a full week there next summer!
One of my absolute favorite spots! You have me dreaming.
Cassis is on of my favorite places I’ve ever been! Achingly want to return. Gorgeous calanque photos!!